
I stumbled off my bus from chennai into Pondicherry, right outside my hotel already wishing I understood some Tamil. I was getting by with the bare, “bus stand enge, Anna?” Or simply, “beach??” with a thumbs up hand poking the air upward and backward, but conversations were impossible, and I probably lost out on many an interesting detail in the Pond life.

Nevertheless, I trudged on making random friends determined to not let my handicap get in the way, encouraged by the amiable demeanour of the people on the road. Two women in the seedy bakery opposite my hotel decided to investigate my conference tag as I investigated their countertop for signs of chocolate. Once they hit the realisation that I was a doctor, they insisted on having a long dialogue with me in Tamil, ignoring all my protests and hand flapping. They insisted on giving me their phone numbers, at which point I just gave up and started enjoying the game. I took contact photographs and asked them to call me right there, earning that look of glee, much giggling and a rather forceful backslap. Pondicherry buses proved to be incredibly easy to get into, the conductors always taking pity on the lost expression on my face, gently nudging me in the right direction. My google maps decided to stop functioning until my last day in Pondicherry, but even with my terrible sense of direction, I managed without really losing myself in those streets.

The city is divided into a christian, a hindu, a muslim and a french quarter. As one movedls through the city one notices the change in architecture, a difference in trade, in characters on the sidewalks, the graffiti on the walls and the colours of the buildings.

Towards the beach, the buildings become square-r, flatter and more pastel coloured. Music turns from shady tamil movie songs to Rahman and finally blends into strains of the piano mixed with classical carnatic music punctuated with the mridangam, fused with the more forceful spund of the western drums.


You notice immediately that this is where different worlds have collided and merged, mixing into a rich heady cocktail of French and Indian culture. The rocky beach is busy but peaceful. Paved sidewalks and small cafes are dotted with smiling people writing, sketching or reading with their cup of chai or just staring into space. Something interesting is always happening on beach road, and the tourism office chap was quick to direct me. Proper advice was given, with a poorly disguised look of indignation at a young lone girl traveling. Whats more, she drinks and doesnt seem averse to the idea of sampling a new cocktail. Such horror! I almost snorted when he suggested that I carry a bottle of wine for my brother or father. I listened politely to the chap carry on about his distaste for Indian politics, the placement of the gandhi statue at the beach, and his disagreement with the fact that Pondy should be an Indian state and not french. Still. The 24 hour cafe quickly whipped up a chicken salad for me and let me carry a delicious almond croissant to enjoy in the solitude of my hotel room.

When I fell asleep watching national geographic in Tamil, it was only because the first few days in Pondicherry had been stuffed with street adventure leaving lots to be explored.
